Thursday, December 8, 2016

Black Stash Jacket parts 4 & 5

So we wrapped up our production of Peter and the Starcatcher.  Black Stash's jacket was (I thought) complete.  I had the collar buttoned down.  Note our poor mannequin with burn marks on the neck from when we used a heat gun to mold plastic armor.
 The lining was as in as it was going to go.
 Here is the side view, something has changed though, did you catch it?
 And I added more navy fabric to the hem to bolster up the yellow and royal stripes at the bottom.

 Back view with the mitered trim. It never did hang exactly right.  If I do another jacket remake like this (and it is likely) I'll probably just line each piece of the coat individually.
 The front view.  I added gold buttons onto the end of each stripe.
So you might have noticed that the cuffs are different from when I first started.The reason for this is twofold:  The style of cuffs I'd made were very floppy and the actors wearing the coat found them distracting.  So I made a more fitted cuff with yellow and blue stripes to match the front of the coat. But secondly, and more importantly, the right cuff needed to be a trick sleeve.


It is very important as a costumer to pay attention to the script and I confess that when I began the jacket I had not read it all the way through  At the end of the play, Black Stash has his hand cut off and he becomes dun-dun-DUN Captain Hook.
So I had to rig the sleeve to come down and cover the actor's hand to make it look like it's been cut off, also it had to be quick and easy for her to do with one hand.  I thought the red Velcro looked a bit like blood.

Here you can see where one arm is longer than the other.  So there you have it, how a plain old blue blazer becomes a tricked out pirate coat.

Sunday, November 27, 2016

Black Stash Jacket part 3

 I added more yellow around the edge of the jacket to hide the raw edges of the yellow and blue bars.
The very last bar was meant to wrap around the edge of the bottom of the jacket,
but the fabric had begun to fray very badly and it just was not working.  So i seam ripped the whole mess out of there and started over. 

I added new trim that went up and around in mitered corners, which were tricky since they are not all right angles.  I had to just keep eyeballing it until it lined up nicely.  I probably could have used a protractor but I didn't have one.
 The next part was adding lining.  I used old lining from a bathrobe we had in stock.  I would not recommend this as it didn't line up exactly and was very fiddly to attach.
 I got it there in the end but if I'd known it was going to be so annoying I would have just partially lined the front where the appliqued bars are.

Monday, October 17, 2016

Black Stash Jacket part 2

I cut the front of the blue blazer using this tutorial.  Then I added navy blue bias tape to the edges.  

I want the jacket to have a military feel to it without copying any actual military uniform. Originally, I was only going to have just these three bars on the front (anyone know the name of this type of embellishment?) 

But I it looked incomplete so I added more bars that diminish in size.

I added royal blue, satin ribbon down the center of each yellow bar so it wouldn't look so blocky, then satin stitched around the raw edges.  This yellow polyester material frays like crazy!  Worse than costume satin!

Then I designed a cuff that echoes the design elements of the yellow and blue bars.  Again, I didn't want to copy any particular military uniform so I avoided using stripes that designate rank. We want this play and its costumes to feel as though children are playing out the story using things they might have found in an attic or grandparents closet or the like.  A kid might find a fancy jacket and think it looks military enough.
 The cuffs are only pinned on because I need the two actors who will be wearing the jacket to try it on.  Two characters wear the jacket: First, Lord Astor, who is captain of a secret mission to find 'star stuff.'  One of the reasons that I didn't want to use British Military style is because his mission is top secret and unofficial so the British Navy would not want it known they're involved.  The second character is Black Stash who steals the jacket from Lord Astor.

*Note, I ended up not using these cuffs.  I'll post a pic of the new ones as soon as I can.

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